Sep 20, 2014

Biscay defeated!

Note: This post was supposed to be out a few days ago. Sorry about that.

The wind is still hurling outside, but we're now safely attached to earth once again.
We had to go through our third gale, and after a few hours of intense sprays our entire boat is now covered in salt. My hands are dry, my jeans are white, and there's a kind of "extra grip" to everything in the cockpit.

The wonderful shower will have to wait even longer, because the out-of-season harbour office will only open at certain times. I was really looking forward to peel off that layer of salt from my hair and face, but I guess it'll have to wait. At least nobody's hurt, eh?

It feels really strange to have come this far in less than three weeks. There are palm trees outside, last night the water temperature was over 25 celsius (at night on 5K depth!), and I can slowly take off the woollen clothes, layer by layer. Amazing! We will stay here for a while to do some upgrades on the boat, so I'll have plenty of time to go on adventures here. I'll try to picture something cool for ya!

So, this is the place where I would put my photos. But then, the connection is so bad here that I won't even give it a chance. I think I'll find a solution tomorrow, so bear with me!

Sep 16, 2014

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All I can say after these days is: what a generous ocean! It has really showed us the whole spectrum of weather (except snow or mid seas tsunamis).
This day started out with yet another gale, and now we're having success in running away from the weather, which of course will delay us even more...

I can't remember having just enough sleep or being just enough full. Waves pressing us against the walls, left, right, left, right - won't let you sleep that much. The appetite is also having a hard time, but in this exact moment I'm actual extremely full! Our super great fish party just ended, and the rest of the crew will try to get some sleep. We're equally tired, but I need to practise my new stay-awake-technique; sing-along prog rock! I have yet to find a better method than singing.

In other words, we're doing very well and the hopes are high. Still waiting for our daily dolphin show, though, but we're hanging in!
Åkerfeldt out!

Sep 15, 2014

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Jolly news incoming!
Biscay has proved to be really unpredictable. Starting out with the fear of ocean walls, and ending our third day at sea with a swim, a fish, glowing algies and shooting stars. Did I mention the dozens of dolphins playing cannonball in the air?

The swim was fantastic, but sadly in those fifteen minutes of dolphin lunch break. At least we had 4km of water beneath us, that should be cool enough for now.
Regarding the fish, it was a 2kg mackerel and my new personal fishing record!

After a couple of days with stew I'm really looking forward to our first "real" fish meal. A fish feast. Oh, and the shower in Spain. And maybe some WiFi or at least mobile connection. Soooon...
Well, it is pretty good to be so free too. I'd have to conclude with this being absolutely wonderful.

With our current speed, we'll arrive in La Coruna in 34 hours...We'll see about that.
Goodnight and have a fantastic...weekday.(eherm)
Fisherlady out!

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Greetings from the open sea!
As I am speaking we're halfway to Spain and the weather is finally bearable! I can't remember if I explained the Biscay problem to my land crab friends, so here it goes:
When strong winds meet streams, the waves build up very tall and steep, and turn into what looks like a surfer's heaven. I guess you can imagine our (my) thoughts when the winds turned to gale already the first night. It seems like "stable winds" only applied to the direction of the wind...

Yesterday was the the most enormous roller-coaster I have ever tried.
The windows got occasional washes - as did we, and parts of the deck was submerged plenty of times. And, in the middle of it all, a bunch of dolphins came to play again, as if making fun of our struggles.

Now we're inside the actual bay, and easterly winds makes the bay a shelter. Lovely!
X

Sep 13, 2014

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O'hoy there!
We're on schedule on our way to Spain, and just finished the coziest Saturday night! Pizza party, feel-good music and 10-20 dolphins playing under and alongside the boat! (I got some movies for ya!)

One hour into the first night shift and I already finished my Irish fashion magazine. Sailing with great winds and an autopilot really is easy! Time to get some real brain food, then.

The weather is what we call wonderful (3 meters waves and stable sailing winds) and the hopes are high to get to La Coruna within four days!

I'll get back to ya, but now there are just too many dolphins to do anything else than squeeze my face into the window.
Have a good weekend, folks! Ester out!

Sep 12, 2014

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Updates from sea!
Trying out our satellite phone before the big ocean crossing. With this I can post some words of the day when we're out of connection!
The technology of today, huh? Wonderful.

Spain in the horizon!

Tomorrow morning we set sail for Spain. As many of you might now, that means we're crossing the Biscay Bay, a little milestone in itself; 4-5 days of ocean crossing on infamous waters.
Nevertheless, the weather forecast is excellent and our boat has seen some heavy weather before (calm down, mum).

Our last night on our way from Northern Ireland was exceptionally foggy with tidal streams against us. But hey, at least I got some good shots, right?

We are now settled in Kilmore Quay - another cosy village of the northern isles.
Ever since we left the canal we've been followed by porpoises and seals, and we have had many encounters with cute old fishermen. Soon we will eat the famous crabs of Kilmore and have our precious showers.

10 feet sight. Nope, nope, nope.




I realise this is where the photoshopping would come in - if I had time.

The sky is a painting.

I even managed a sailing selfie!
Ship o'hoy and see you around!

Sep 9, 2014

Canal life and around

Internet is rare ware around. Désolé!
So much has happened since last time I blogged - I don't even know where to start! (I guess "the beginning" is always a winner.)

The Caledonian Canal is an adventure on its own. In many ways. First of all, you're sailing a large yacht in freshwater, several metres above sea level on narrow ways with forests and mountains all around you. Secondly, you have to watch out for the famous men in orange - the boating tourists. In few words: you don't need any kind of experience to be allowed to rent a boat in the canal. Praise the heavens for all the fenders we've got!
We've been through the canal twice already, so the third time everything seemed to go automatic.
The third day in the canal we spent on getting supplies, washing our clothes and searching for internet. It was to become a very long day.
First of all, the nearest shop was miles away and, well, we only had a boat and our feet. Secondly, washing machines over here are pretty expensive, so we decided to wash our clothes in the super clean canal freshwater. Did i mention it was cold? Luckily, half of the clothes got more or less clean, and we did make a whole lot of tourist pictures a whole lot better.
After our washing adventure, we set out to find some internet. Not an easy task in Scotland, it seemed. We finally found a restaurant with the big, beautiful inscription of "FREE WIFI" on the sign. Immediate applause. Now, the clue with this restaurant was that the internet really did exist there, but you had to wait at least one hour for one page to open completely. When dad gave up on finding the weather forecasts we finally gave in to the fact that we were savage people on a boat, in the middle of Scotland. Oh well.
On the day of the departure we were placed behind a big "puffer" - an old british boat fuelled on coal. Not only was its massive hull threatening us with squeezing and crushing - the crew were all tourists and were chit-chatting loudly about the strange sailing ship with the fishermen from the north. A guy in the back asked us where we were heading and when we waved goodbye only a few minutes later, all the women in the front were shouting "safe travels" and "cheer Mr. Marley from us!". Tourists... (I am of course kidding at this moment, realising we must seem pretty stupid ourselves on our little humble boat on our way to the Caribbean.)

Out in the sea again we headed for Northern Ireland, via Crinan - the famous other canal of Great Britain. We did not care to get in after passing 28 locks and finally feeling at home again, so after a short night we went straight for the Irish city Bellycastle where I now sit in the most beautiful marina with the most fantastic internet connection!
Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself here. Out on the british sea a new game called "Bird or Shark?" started. Last time we were here we saw several basking sharks around and we were now certain we would see more of this large, fantastic shark. It's around 5 metres long, has an enormous mouth and always stays on the surface of the water!
After a good amount of hours of "nah, just a bird!" I started remembering my last encounter of birds. The nature is really testing me with this one. And if that was not enough, what do you think the main population in Bellycastle consists of? Thousands of seabirds, of course! I need the best of luck to get my sleep tonight. Them birds...

Bellycastle is beautiful, as I was saying. There is a large park just next to the marina and a nice little fish n' chip shop next to the park. This was our dinner today, and one of the other guests told us we  were eating the best fish and chips in all of ireland! She herself had driven 50 miles by car to get here today. The other part of the population (at least the one we hear quite well) is the rubber burners. A nice choir of cheap engine and hungry bird will definitely be lulling us to sleep tonight. Let's just call it an adventure...

As the weather gets colder we're hurrying down south along with the birds. We hope to get to Dublin in a couple of days and then the plan is to head down to Cork, south in Ireland, to wait for the good weather to cross the Biscay Bay. Exotic land feels closer. Literally. The sunburn on my left cheek is constantly reminding me that we're still on "vacation" and that there is more yet to come.

I will try and get ready some gear so you'll hear from us more often, in the meantime I'll let you look through some pictures of the last week.

O'hoy!

Birdland #1

Inverness, the Bed & Breakfast town.





 When the water turns into a river, there's something completely wrong with being on a sailing boat.

 Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness.

 Gar started the fantastic tradition of him making us great breakfast-sandwiches!

 "Please steer the boat instead of taking pictures!"

 Getting ready for testing our parasailor. The winds were not good, so we will try again later.

 A swim in Loch Ness is always a must.

Birdland #2. 


Half the population of Ballycastle. I will hereby not be accused for exaggerations. 




 You can't imagine how good it felt to press the big, red button!

I wish I had something clever to say here. 1-0 to Ballycastle marina.

Morton's fish & chips - the best there is!

Sep 3, 2014

The North Sea is passed.

Finally, we're sitting safe and sound on MacDonalds in Inverness, never to see the north sea again (until we come home, that is.)
We've had quite a rough weather, but the boat is a good one and we're holding in!

When going south from Shetland, it is very important to stay far away from the southern land, as the waves are enormous, uncontrollable and really dangerous. It says in all maps, and all the locals could tell you the same. Where did we go? IN THE MIDDLE.
Even though it resulted in massive fluid loss (hmpf), it was quite an amazing sight! The waves were 7-8 metres tall and from all directions at once. It looked really fake, and you wouldn't believe me even if I tried to explain the view. But I promise! It was the craziest ocean I've seen in my life. Actually, it was somehow worth it. We managed to pass through and get safely to Fair Isle.

Fair Isle was fantastic. And for me, extremely scary.
I was planning this perfect jogging trip around the island, all alone in the wild, untouched nature. (Well if you don’t count the millions of birds, sheep and guys with really huge cameras.) After about four minutes, slow jogging turned into hectic sprinting, when chocolate birds* started circling around me with the intention of splitting my head in half if I kept on interrupting them. I tried to move as far out on the edge as possible, and was praised for being brave when I returned. Truth is, I was too scared of the chocolate birds to even walk with a straight back! My heart was pumping wildly while I ran alongside a fence, shifty eyes constantly looking angry birds in the eye. Am I a coward? Yes. Yes, I am a coward.
In other words, it was more of a cardio workout than enjoying the nature. Note to self: don’t interrupt wildlife birds without wearing a helmet. Don’t interrupt wildlife birds.

In the bay where we stayed for the night, around 13 seals were chilling around in the water. Very cute!
Other than birds, sheep and cameras, the island could present an enormous twister-board, attached to the ground in the middle of huge masses of animal poo. I never got the chance to play, but I hereby invite all my friends for a big twister party the next time we’re all gathered on this remote island in the north sea. Hah. Hah… Hah.

*A chocolate bird is an enormous, aggressive bird that resembles chocolate.


Next day, we decided to go all the way to the canal, starting in the evening and arriving the next. In the night we had a visit of five dolphins playing with the boat for a few minutes - a fantastic sight! They were jumping only a few centimetres from the boat. I’ll see if I can post a video of that soon.
In about a week we’re hoping to see huge sharks, called Basking Sharks. They’re around 5 metres long and have jaws like whales. Super duper cool!

Tidal streams helped us getting quicker to our target and we will be in Loch Ness tomorrow or the day after! The caribbean is slowly getting closer…






Twister v.2; remote island 





 Cliff photographing

Scared-of-birds-selfie



 Dolphin watchers. They saw none. The boat is always the winner!



First step into freshwater. 27 locks left.


 Goodbye, ocean!

Our master chef making fantastic dinner!